Holiday Hiatus: Alysha Visits

I return to Japan, saddened to return to an empty house with no food or family, much in contrast to the time that I spent in India. Thankfully, however, Alysha landed up the very next day, right on time.

We headed out to the Imperial Palace to celebrate the emperor's birthday. Was kind of hesitant, but the offer of chocolate cake was what pushed me over the edge.

Alysha ready to greet her favorite Japanese emperor. We just made it inside the gates for the last appearance of the emporer. The Imperial Palace is only open two times during the year, one of which is the 23rd of December, the emperor's birthday.

We also traveled to the Meiji shrine, where we saw the wishes below:

Please note the wishes in the third row, far right. If you can't read it, leave a comment and I'll transcribe for you.

A wedding was taking place at Meiji that day.

In Harajuku there are a lot of cosplay (costume play) fans that dress up on days off from school. This is a little bit different from what Gwen Stefani has glorified for the American public.

Hey, friend.

Though it was bitterly cold, we traveled to see the lights around Tokyo station. It was so incredibly crowded that we reduced ourselves to stepping out of line and finding our own route. Good thing we did, because we saw this building with some pretty sweet building lighting.

After a few days in Tokyo, we traveled on to Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan. We hit a lot of the same stops as when I traveled earlier last semester, but got to hit a couple more places as well.

One of the highlights of the trip was the Kyoto Monkey Park, a place where Japanese monkeys can roam in their natural environment forage as they would in the wild - gathering bits of cut up fruit handed to them by people on the other side of a wire screen.

Monkey surveys his domain.

Refreshing fountain in Nara deer park.

One new place we visited was Fushimi Inari shrine, which consisted of walking through torii gates for a couple hours.

We went to this wild okonomiyaki joint in Gion - the Geisha district in Kyoto. There was one Geisha spotting, by the way. This place was just crazy because the menu consisted of one item (here we contemplate our choice) and there were mannequins seated throughout the restaurant, so we really couldn't tell how crowded it was.

Shinkansen (bullet train).

Alysha met a geisha.

Alysha has a kimono.

Having Alysha with me for 10 days was awesome. It was surreal guiding family around a place that was so foreign to me just a short time ago.

Holiday Hiatus: Aiyappa Festival

The Aiyappa Festival was another gem on my visit to India. Aiyappa is a hunter diety, and the most compelling part of the whole shindig was the possession. No, I'm not talking about holding land or wealth, or even having control of the football. I'm talking genuinie, full-blown, no holds-barred, spiritual possession.

After filling our stomachs, we traveled into the estate to a holy area of the forest. It is considered God's land, and as such cannot be cultivated. Thus, it is unadultered Indian jungle. The bull below was loaded with some rice as a means for offering, actually provided by my cousin because jewelry that she had lost was returned to her.

We walked into the coffee plantation, and after some time entered the untouched forest. We walked along the above path and suddenly, the clearing stood before us.

The above mound in the clearing is comprise of offerings to Aiyappa. All are statues of dogs that have deteriorated through weathering, and as new offerings are tossed on top, the newest statues are on top with the bottom of the pile consisting mainly of unrecognizable pieces of clay.

A shooting contest (since Aiyappa is the hunting god) started the events in the clearing. A coconut was set up in a tree and I was third in line to take a shot. I never got my chance, however, thanks to the excellent marksmanship of my cousin, Gautham. It's a good thing he hit the target, because I wouldn't have wanted to have to show him up. He was even given the shell as a commemorative piece. I belive it's going to become a necklace for his wife, Malvika.

After this, the man to be possessed came. Apparently, one day long ago he ran away from school and didn't stop until he reached this auspicious spot. Annually since then, he has become possessed by the spirit of Aiyappa. Normally, he speaks Kodava language (dialect of the region) but when he becomes possessed he speaks an old form of Malayalam, a language which he has never been taught. After he becomes possessed, he shakes and grunts and the people line up to receive his blessings and ask their wishes. After getting blessed, we were all served sweet from a huge pot.

Holiday Hiatus: Puthari

I was lucky enough to be in India during one of Coorg's major holidays: Puthari, the harvest festival.

Seetha Doddavva prepares some food for the feast for the workers. One of the key dishes prepared was thumbuttu, which is something like a pudding made of bananas, fried rice powder and jaggery - my mouth waters right now just thinking of it.

Preparations: These leaf bundles are eventually put around the house, car, etc. for good fortune.

As Puthari is one of the few major holidays on the Kodava Calendar, there was certainly a great deal of anticipation leading up to this day. Akka had told me in my younger years of the triumphant cries of "Poli Poli Deva!" and the general revelry that happened on this auspicious day. Basically, on December 14th, thanks are given for the harvest and to the ancestors.

Amongst other things, Puthari involves children and fireworks...

...always a good combination.

Here Rani Kunjiavva preforms prayer before the paddy that is to be harvested by Ben Kunjiappa.

Gautham Anna fired off the gun, amidst the cries of "Poli Poli Deva!" and flying shards of fireworks. Thankfully, only two people were hit with the firecrackers, only one of which was pregnant.

After Kunjiappa got his feet washed before re-entering the house, he had to have some milk. Drink up, strong bones will make you grow tall!

Puthari was one experience of which I was certainly glad to have been a part. Kunjiappa was looking sharp in his kupya, and it was indescribably great to be with family for the event. After all of the feasting and ceremony was over, the workers came to kaal puddi (take blessings by touching another's feet) the family. I was not expecting to be a part of this, seeing as I'm a youngster in the family, and I'm always on the giving end of kaal puddis. Lo and behold, my first kaal puddi occured that night when the some of the workers' children shot over in my direction, bent over, and touched my feet. My, I felt so grown up all of a sudden. Bless you, children.

Holiday Hiatus: Mother India

My trip to India was quite memorable, but I suppose moreso it was surprising. The surprise arose from the fact that nobody besides my uncle, Panchu Boju, knew that I was coming. So one morning I just landed up in good ol' Bangalore, after about 24 hours of traveling and layovers at nearly every airport from here to India. Panchu Boju picked me up and after a brief nap, we headed off to surprise people. After changing into pants to cover up my legs, I covered my head with a jacket and was led into houses to be introduced as Boju's "new girlfriend." Nobody really had any clues who this person was (the most fruitful guess was, perhaps, "Usha"), and then SURPRISE! - out came Rohan to what I like to think was more excitement than bewilderment. Boju and I thought we were pretty smart until we arrived in Victoria Layout. My immaculate and timely sense of fashion is what did us in. Suhana guessed "Rohan" right off, thanks to fact that I haven't purchased new shoes or socks since my last visit two years ago. That Suhana's first guess was correct was the first SURPRISE! for me. After revealing myself, and getting hugs and greetings, I got the next one. SURPRISE! - Suhana's working on her final project and you can help! Welcome to India...

Suhana was working on her textile design graduation project for the revered Shristi design school and she had chosen screen printing as her medium, which I must say is quite sweet. Long hours of drama unfolded that carshed-turned-workshop, but the final product was worth it, as Suhana got rave reviews.

There's me, hard at work setting up Suhana's exhibition. They forced me to smile, so that people would think i was "enjoying" my time in India.

After showing up unannounced at various houses in Bangalore, some dinner with cousins, and a birthday party, we headed off to Coorg.

Ananth suggested martial arts poses in honor of my visit from Japan.

Sumedh/Cookies' birthday party. Sumedh's little friends were a treat, as you can judge from their expressions.


Dinner on a banana leaf... you just can't go wrong.


Aww, the moms-to-be.



Indian assembly line.


Indian highway carpooling.


At a gas station mid-way from Bangalore to Coorg. My new friend, Arjun.

Seeing family in Coorg was like none other. This was made all the better by the Coorg scenery - the views are unparalleled. Lush green colors, the clear blue skies - a veritable paradise. It's the kind of beauty that calms and exhilarates you deep within.

Some serious rummy. Nice hand, Boj.


Kunjiappa and Kunjiavva's work in progress. Absolutely wonderful location.

I ended my week in Coorg at Kunjiri. Having completed all the essential stops, I was whisked back to Bangalore by early morning bus, just in time for Suhana's graduation.

Looking quite dignified in a sweet Coorg saree.

Suhana came away with awards and compliments galore, and even did the farewell address for her class. (Which she found out about the day before.)

This shot was taken for verification that Suhana really was at her 2005 Graduation. Notice that she is peeking through the curtains...

The night of graduation I was treated to a club with a bunch of fashion school girls, which unfortunately closed down at 11:30. It was proving to be an interesting night, but Suhana wasn't about to let that happen. "Can I hit on your cousin?" "He's 19, you know." "Damn." Thanks cuz, I'll remember that.

After Suhana's exhibition, there was a neat little luncheon shindig in her honor where a bunch of family showed up. 'Twas wonderful, as you can judge by the fact that a dance party sporadically broke out.

Later that night, a bunch of us met up at Rocky's club where we hung out for a while. The dance floor wasn't open that night, but that didn't stop us. Soon the whole club was was on the floor, and I was being laughed at for my dancing. Appreciate the confidence-boost, Sheetal.

The trip to India, as usual, ended more quickly then desired. But I can't complain; I had an amazing time. What's more, I was sent away with more Indian food than any man would ever need (thanks for the packing skills, Pooja), and when when your time ends with a party on the roof, you know something has gone right.

Pri is somewhere between 90 and 95% here.

With all the family that I saw, all the good times that I had, all the memories that I came away with, and the discussion of the correct pronunciation of "scooter" ("scoo-TA?" - what rubbish), I know I'll be back soon.

Holiday Hiatus: Happy New Year

I hope that you and yours had a wonderful New Year's holiday. Please forgive the intermission. It's been long since I last wrote mainly because my holiday was just too good. I am really thankful that I was able to spend the time traveling and with family. More details to come, but for now here's wishing you all the best for 2006.